Thursday, July 31, 2008

The Black Canyon – Deepest canyon created by the Lord in North America

July 15 – Tuesday (Sunny, Hot, 90’s…predictably boring)

After leaving our campsite in Ouray, we came out of the mountains and found the entrance to Black Canyon National Park. It was a beautiful day. As I stated before, this park was only a monument like White Sands and Four Corners until Bill Clinton came here and decided it should get more funding and thre should be more land tha should be set aside for preservation. In 1999 he made it a National Park. We spoke to a local who owned a souvenir/gift shop. You’d think he would be thrilled with the prospect of many new tourists but he wasn’t. He liked the small number of visitors that came each year and knew that with the National Park status, that area would change forever. As we drove in, we noticed the difference from the grand canyon. Not as wide but plenty deep.


Pictures can not portray depth of field that well. The walls were not made of the same stone that Grand Canyon as made of it was hard black looking granite. I always get a kick out of science explanation of age of rock. Most signs attributed this canyon to 500 million years ago. I just like to give the Lord the glory and think about how awesome He is and the mighty power He must have to make such a spectacle. Whether it’s due to the Gunnison River or His wondrous ability to carve and mold His greatness is demonstrated in His creation, especially man.

There are several views and vistas such as Gunnison Point, Kneeling Camel, Rim House, Dragon Point, Sunset View, etc. that give different views to the canyon. I snapped some photos.



Notice in the picture above that one side of this part of the canyon is sloping and green and the other side steep and barren. Rangers tell us it is due to the sun. The east side of the basin is exposed to the sun more than the west making it more lush and full of trees. One special formation is the painted wall view. From the surface it looks like someone painted the wall, but it is really different layers of rock from the formation of the canyon wall. If you were to slice through the wall vertically, the look of the painted stripes would take on a new pattern because it is actually a three dimensional strata of rock. The canyon at this point is the deepest in North America. The picture shows what it would look like if the Empire State Building was placed in the canyon. The canyon wall is actually 2300 feet high.

We hiked into one last view which was about 2 miles round trip. It was the Warner Point trail. We thought it would be a quick walk and did not bring enough water. As a Boy Scout leader, I knew better but went anyway. It was steep and arduous. Thankfully for us some folks at the point had extra water and they offered us some. We had a chance to witness to them about Christ. They listened but declined extensive discussion. That is OK…the seed was planted. The view actually was not worth the walk but along the trail there were stopping points that Mr. Warner had taken the time to describe. One thing we read about was the Juniper tree and its ability to withstand the dry, arid region. It ability to twist and the type of bark allowed it to resist death in such an arid place. The berries become the favorite of many wild animals and reptiles.
We made it back to the RV and upon leaving stopped to buy some souvenirs. As I was leaving the RV to enter the store, there was a lady smoking a cigarette. She was just finishing and threw the lit remains on the ground. I guess the world as some see it is an ashtray or garbage pit. What irked me was that throughout the park and for the past several days, we had seen Smoky the Bear signs indicating that the chance of forest fires was very very high. When asked to extinguish the cigarette I was told to mind my own business that she was a local. This had a profound effect on me in that I thought about how we take things for granted when we live in an area and forget about our surroundings and how in a moment it could be destroyed by our stupidity. We left and headed for our next destination which will be Arches National Park… in Arizona…again. Because of darkness, we overnighted at a RV park in Fruita Colorado, a small town near the Arizona border.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Mesa Verde 3rd day and road to the Black Canyon

July 14th – Monday (Morning hot, afternoon cool, 90’s to 70’s, Rainy then Dry)

The next stop for the Bailey’s is Black Canyon National Park. Looking at the GPS, this is a long drive and we got a late start leaving Mesa Verde. The drive this morning is to Wetheril Mesa. We left early in order to catch the ranger guided tour of the Long house pueblo community. The road is restricted to 25 foot motorhomes. We are a little bit bigger so I did not forsee a problem. It is another cliff community, only on this tour you can walk behind the rooms, mainly so we could see what is called a “seep”. This is the sole source of water that allowed these communities to exist. During rain storms, the rain would flow thorough the and stone into the cliff community. The Pueblos would dig out little troughs to catch the water. We also got to go down inside an actual kiva with a roof. We climbed down the ladder and sat in the kiva as the pueblos did in 1200’s. There are also storage areas used for food, and other necessities as well as a place for human refuse. Mainly the bathroom facility and garbage can was to do it or throw it over the cliff. Even the dead were slide down the cliffs and buried; remains have been found. Once back from the tour, we decided to see the older Pueblo communities.

We then visited the Kodiak and Badger communities. These communities are older from 550AD. It was fascinating to see the transformation from below ground dwellings to pit houses to cliff houses. The guides told us the move to the cliffs was mainly due to weather exposure. The ruins of Kodiak and Badger communities were representative of that time. Notice the Kivas looked very similar for over 1700 years.

We left Mesa Verde and traveled northeast on route 550 to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Not having a map, we had no idea why the GPS said it would take several hours to complete about 60 miles of road. Well we shortly found out why. I took a photo of the topo map for this area.

We started traveling on 550 towards Black Canyon National Park. It was a national monument until Bill Clinton in 1999 made it a national park. Most of the local residents are not real happy because it brought more tourism. As we took route 550 we began to climb up and up and up…6788 feet to be exact. This is called the Colorado Trail. It is one of the most spectacular drives in all of the US in my opinion. We drove on canyon ridges so close to the edge that Therese felt like we’d go over the edge. She literally looked out the window at cliffs that were a 1000 feet down to the bottom. At points in the road, the white line marking the edge of the road and the shoulder disappeared.
I asked later why there were no rails. I was told it is due to snow removal. The snow has to be pushed over the ledge. Most of these roads are not plowed between 9pm and 5am. At the peak of the road we stopped at Molas Pass which is 10,788 feet above sea level. Mesa Verde was at about 4000 feet. When we stopped, it was actually cold and rainy. We decided to eat dinner there. As we ate, the sun came out and the sky cleared. This is the first time we saw snow since last winter. The San Juan Forest gave us the first real Adirondack like surrounding since leaving Syracuse. Lots of Aspen trees, pine trees and green forests. Lakes as well. It was serene.
We left and began a big decent into Silverton an old mining community tucked away in a valley.

It looked like a place I’d retire to. Although they do get 190 – 250 inches of snow in the winter. Most folks leave for the winter. It is a ski and snowmobile area however. We stopped to see if it would be a good stopping place in the future and found a 3 day alpine loop you can do with a 4x4 jeep. Another day. We decided to continue to Ouray , another mining community that had hot springs. We thought that would feel great at night. We ascended then descended and negotiated hairpin turns for 30+ miles into Ouray. We found a RV Park, and claimed an open spot. RV etiquette says that if no one is present at the office and you find an open spot, take it and square up in the morning. We went to the hot springs which are outdoor pools of hot water that come from rain seeping deep into the earth and it springing up from the earth’s heat at different places in the country. Ouray happened to be one of those places. In the morning I went to the office. The man is selling his RV campground. He is done, I joked with him, so how much do you want. He told me he won’t sell it as an RV park but to a condo builder. He had been collecting John Deere memorabilia for a long time.

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Mesa Verde - 2nd Day

July 13 – Sunday (Hot again, 90’s, Dry)

We awoke early enough to the sound of motorhomes pulling out. It was a common sound each morning in National Parks. I began to blog and
Read the next chapter of Nehemiah, chapter 6. Here Nehemiah’s enemies find that all of the gaps have been sealed and that the doors to the gates were being hung. All of there warring could not keep the Lord and the Jews from completing God’s work. So they plotted to kill Nehemiah. If Satan can not keep the family from serving God, he will attack the leader. If not physically, then by demeaning words and attacks on one’s character. The enemy will even use your own against you. We must stay focused on the call and only listen to the Lord when it comes to deviating from the call…then we must pray for our enemies.

All of us then had breakfast and we drove the motorhome to the Cliff Palace trailhead. Along the way we found out why we were here. In the 1200’s, Pueblo indaians built their communities in the overhanging cliffs. They would access these areas by making foot and hand holds in the softer sandstone (softer than granite). They then would mix the earth with water to make mortor and square off rocks as building blocks to build these homes in the cliffs. Not much is known about these communities since their was nothing written down and they have all since moved on. The thought is that they did this for protection from the elements and it allowed them to farm along the top of the mesas. We stopped and viewed the first several structures that remained from a far. This is the House of many windows. You will notice a small structure to the top right. Most communities had these smaller upper structures for storage of food. They were more primitive. We saw several more homes across the gorge specifically Hemenway house, Oak Tree House, and New Fire House then parked at the Balcony house parking lot. We met the ranger named is Mark. He deputized me Junior ranger for the tour and we left.


To get to these communities we had to climb down large ladders and walk along ridges. I could not imagine using foot and hand holds. Once there we were treated to an awesome experience. Most of these ruins were rebuilt to some degree based on the knowledge of ancestors and original foundations. When most of these were discovered in the late 1800’s, there was a lot of rubble, but the base structures were preserved giving an outline to the rooms that were once there. One of the major parts of a pueblo community is the Kiva. It has been a part of the Pueblo community since as early as 550BC. Even though the style of building changed, this one structure remained the same. It was a big hole in the ground that was coverd with a mud roof except for a hole in the center for people to climb into and smoke to exit the enclosed room. It was there religious sanctuary so to speak. This is where they’d ask for rain and other necessities that only the Lord could provide, except they attributed to different earth gods. The ancient Pueblo believed they came form the earth so they wanted to be as close to it as possible. The third picture is one without the lid or top.

As the ranger talked, we noticed No15 carved in many of the formations. A famous photographer of the 1800’s who discovered many of these communities left this so all would know he was there. He was Swedish and his name was Nordenskiold. Hence the “No”. The number represented the different spots he took photos of. Many of them were for sale but very expensive. After exiting Balcony house we decided to ride our bicycles to Cliff house trailhead.

We missed the turn and rode for a while up and down hill. It was good to get some exercise. Once at Cliff house trailhead, we followed the ranger into Cliff House. It is a community meeting place for all of the local communities the rangers think because of the number of Kivas. It would hold up to 150 people and had 12 kivas.

Later that day we hiked into Spruce house on our own and looked around. It was called Spruce House because there was a gigantic spruce tree that grew out of the community pueblo. It did provide easier access to the mesas above. After this we went back to our site, ate dinner and retired shortly after.

Mesa Verde 1st day – The “Green tables” created by the Lord for Indian protection.

July 12 –Saturday (Hot, 90’s, Dry, No Rain – Again!)

We awoke to a bright sunny day. Scott had already been up when I exited the motorhome and he was pumping diesel fuel into his truck from a 70 gallon drum he carried with him. I asked him and his wife if we could snap a photo for our blog, they obliged.



We were glad that the Lord put them in this spot at this time, otherwise, I would not had stayed here. Thank you Scott and Pam and God Bless. We took time this morning to read chapter 5 of Nehemiah. Sometimes it is necessary to build at the same time you are combating the enemy. While we are building our family together by focusing on Christ we are also batlling the enemy. It requires prayer, leadership and brethren to help fight the battle with you. We left for monument valley on our way to Mesa Verde, CO. We are still in Arizona at this point but will go through Utah to get to Colorado. As we drove, the formations became alive. Beautiful reds and well cut mesas that resembled fins and tables.

We came upon a large RV place called Gouldings RV Park. It was a tourist site in the middle of no where. We had to pull in. It was placed right in the Mesas of Monumnet Valley. It would had been a great spot to stay…If we only knew. At this point we were figuring out the Woodall’s campground book we bought. We had to do this beciae the passport America was starting to be no as useful. It looks like during the summer months, not all of the Passport America places honor the ½ off price. We did some shopping then left. As we drove, we saw more unique formations …a cub scout sign and Mexican hat rock.

We then went to a unique part of the country. It is a place called four corners and is the only place in America where four corners of four states meet. They are Colorado, Utah, Arizona and New Mexico. You can literally put one hand in Arizona, one hand in Utah, One foot in New Mexico and one foot in Colorado. We took a picture there and had each member of the family in a different state. It was a riot.As we left, we asked a man t take the picture in return for a snow cone for is family. He started to leave when I reminded him. As it turns out, he had used his last penny literally to get his family into the monument and a snow cone was what they desired but did not have anyway to buy it. Jehovah Jireh, the Lord provides. I gave him our testimony and as it turns out they were believers coming from a non-denominational church. We shared in the Lord for a good ½ hour and he told us of a Christian book he was writing to help kids to learn to ski, it started as a song about Noah’s Ark and how animals would help the kids learn to ski. He sang it for us. Cool! We added them to tour prayer list because he had a son that he was denied pateral rights to and was looking to gain custody. As usual, I snapped a picture of this happy family (Kevin and Alice, kids:Alex, Rachael and Jacob). We then headed for Mesa Verde National Park.
We made the steep climb to our campground which was 4 miles in, set up camp and had dinner. Tonight was corn on the cob, BBQ chicken and a salad. We bought tickets for 2 ranger guided tours tomorrow of Cliff and Balcony Palace Pueblos. This way we could go down inside the structures. At this point I had no idea what we were even looking at. There are 2 major loops in Mesa Verde the Chapin Mesa and the Wetheril Mesa. We were camping at Morefield Village.After dinner, I took some picture of the sunset around our site and wrote up some of the trip. Therese washed dishes and tidied up while the boys ran around outside. Shortly there after we went to bed.

Monument Valley – The Lord makes monuments of mesas - Part 1

July 11 – Friday (Cool morning – 60’s, Hot during day 90’s, Dry)

We woke up this morning a little later knowing that everyone was leaving. The morning was a pack up and go morning only this time it included a tent. It was cool and very comfortable for us. The Meads like it warmer as everyone knows. I had to roast some coffee for Chris and Gene for allowing us to crash at their home. Noting like thanking someone who likes coffee with some fresh roasted, fresh ground coffee. I gave it to Jim hoping it would make it to Chris (Ha, Ha).

After everything was packed, we said our good-byes and both families went their way.

We had time for one last stop at Grand Canyon. As we looked at the map we chose to visit the desert view where there is a national landmark called the watchtower which was built as a place to view the canyon and still stands today as a landmark at the Grand Canyon. As we were driving, we hoped to see wildlife, but much of the area was burned by fire. We did see some strange signs like the following:


Can you guess? Yup mountain lions next 10 miles! We did not see one but we did see some elk, in the wild, eating from trees. They either liked the berries or leaves, I could not tell. They did not flinch as we passed by.


We stayed at Desert View for an hour and saw a very different perspective to the Grand Canyon since it is 20 miles from the lodges at the south rim where everyone goes. We climbed the tower and used our binoculars to see rafters on the Colorado going through the Grand Canyon. They say it was about 115 degrees at canyon floor. We were looking at low 90’s, high 80’s. As we were descending the tower, we noticed a small plaque that gave credit for this beautiful site to the Lord and not the big bang. It read “All the earth worships Thee; they sing praises to Thee, sing praises to Thy name”.

We left desert view and drove to Monument Valley our next major attraction. Monument Valley is a stretch of highway where mesas have been carved by erosion into formations that jet out of the ground into the sky. They are sandstone and have unique features. The famous Ford’s rock is here and it is where many old westerns have been filmed (John Wayne era). On the way, we saw where the Grand Canyon started. It looked like a crack in the earth.
We entered the Navajo reservation and the landscape changed once again, Mesas instead of canyons. My wife bought some silver jewelry at one of the Navajo stands along the side of the road. Most if not all of it is made by the families running the stands and has a sense of “being made here” instead of in some sweat shop in China. As we drove, it began to get late and we wanted to see Monument Valley, a beautiful stretch of road that has unique mesa formations, during the day so we pulled of in Keyanta, a small town with a pizza place and small plaza. Oh yeah, one neat thing that is becoming a common sight is dried up washes, draws, rivers and creeks. I probably mentioned this before but it is really weird coming from NY where rivers are full of water. These are here when flash floods occur. We could not find an RV campground so we pulled into the plaza. We noticed another fifth wheel there and felt safe in numbers. I approached the other trailer and within minutes the owner came out and we chatted. His name was Scott and he had overnighted here before. He asked me where we were from and I shared our testimony. They were Methodist. The Bailey family decided on pizza, so we went to the pizza place in the plaza. While we were there, Scott and his wife Pam came in to get ice cream. They sat with us and we talked some more. After, we returned to the motorhome to find stray dogs and puppies at our camper looking for food. We could not resist and fed them. They hung around for quite a while waiting for the next meal. We then went to bed.

Grand Canyon National Park…One of God’s 7 wonders of the world creations– Part 2

July 10 – Thursday (Warm, Sunny/Cloudy, high 80’s)

I had decided last night that I would get up at sunrise and do the 1mile down, 1 mile up hike. Daniel and Jim were interested…but not early. The temperature got down into the 50’s and to be honest, I slept great! We had not slept without the air conditioner since San Antonio and it was only the second time on our trip so far. I snapped a picture of our campsite.

So we ate breakfast and then everyone wanted to go. We got down to the trail head at about 11am. Upon entering the Grand Canyon trail, there was a sign that caught my attention.

A lady marathoner had lost her life due to dehydration. Needless to say we had water but I was concerned about enough water. As it turns out, if you made it to the 1 mile down point, there was running water to help you get out. They have a saying what goes down, must come up. Boy was this appropriate. We all had a leisurely stroll down and if not conscience to the up hill climb, back out, could had made it all the way to the bottom. At a point in the trail, Jim, Val and my wife wanted to turn around. The boys wanted to go on so I went with them. It was very hot and at noon, the heat was intense. It was a nice walk down and I got many pictures. Once at the 1 mile point, we saw the ranger. He was getting every one wet. In fact, we wet our T-shirts and hats to keep us cool on the trip up. We also filled our water sacks and bottles, used the composting toilet and then started up.

As we ascended, we took advantage of the shade by slowing down and sometimes stopping, and made time in the sun. At one point, Isaiah, my daring son, saw that there was a rock climb that would eliminate the switchback and it was constantly in the shade, but straight up. He asked me if he could climb it…I hesitated then gave him permission. The rest followed…including me.

We did this several times, I think three times. Then it was onward and upward. We eventually made it back to the top and met up with the rest of the gang at Blue Angel lodge. We told Val of Daniels daring climb and she did not kill me. Thank you Lord. We did some souvenir shopping and then went back to eat early so we could catch the sunset later. We were concerned about getting a sunset because the clouds had moved in. We went out to Grand Point View (check on map) and sat on a rock while we waited for the sunset. The clouds were thick in the distance but we waited anyway. As the sun went down, we met an older couple. We struck up a conversation while waiting. They professed to be Spirit filled Christians. We gave our testimony and how the Lord was using us to share the good news. Smiles grew larger on their faces. They seemed shocked that we would be so bold yet happy to meet fellow brothers and sisters in Christ. This seemed to be the norm as we met people across this grand country with a few exceptions as we have noted. When the sunset did come, it turned out to be beautiful. I snapped many pictures.

After this we drove back to camp and started a campfire. We all sat around and made smores. As the night ended, Mary Therese, Isaiah, Ethan and Val retired to the motorhome and Jim, Daniel and me to the tent. Tomorrow the Meads would leave us and we would drive to Mesa Verde National Park. This trip was not planned but came about after talking to Philip in New Orleans. He recommended it highly.